2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK — 4.7L V8 Head Gasket Replacement

Engine: 4.7L PowerTech V8 (SOHC, 16-valve, aluminum block + heads) Vehicle: 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK (third gen)

Parts List

Must Buy (DO NOT reuse)

[ ] Head gasket set — Fel-Pro HS 26212 PT or Mahle 43739 (includes intake/exhaust/valve cover gaskets)
[ ] Head bolts — 16x M11 TTY bolts. Fel-Pro ES 73326 or Mopar 53021188AC. NOT reusable.
[ ] Intake manifold gaskets — 2x plastic lower gaskets + 1x upper gasket. Fel-Pro MS 98079 T. These crack with age.
[ ] Coolant — Mopar HOAT (purple/orange) or Zerex G05. 50/50 pre-mix or concentrate + distilled.
[ ] Oil + filter — 5W-20 or 5W-30 conventional (break-in), Mopar filter or Wix 51515.

Do While You're In There

[ ] Water pump — 4.7L water pump lives behind the timing cover. Must-replace now.
[ ] Thermostat + gasket — 195°F. Mopar 52028118 or Stant 45359.
[ ] Timing chain kit — Cloyes C-3010K or Melling 3-1252S (chain + guides + tensioners). Guides are known to wear.
[ ] Timing cover gasket set — Includes water pump gasket, front crank seal, cam seals.
[ ] Oil pump — Melling M-258 or OEM. While the timing cover is off, replace it.
[ ] Exhaust manifold gaskets — Fel-Pro MS 93533. Right (passenger) side manifold is prone to cracking.
[ ] Spark plugs — NGK 3199 (copper) or 92001 (iridium). 4.7L eats plugs.
[ ] Valve cover gaskets — They'll be hard by now. New grommets too.
[ ] Heater hose quick-connects — Plastic ones at rear of intake crack.
[ ] RTV silicone — Mopar or Permatex Ultra Black (for timing cover corners and valve cover cam cap areas)

Tools To Have Ready

[ ] Torque wrench (ft-lb) — 3/8" or 1/2" drive. 0-150 ft-lb range.
[ ] Angle gauge / protractor — For TTY bolt final 90° turn. Do not eyeball it.
[ ] Torque wrench (in-lb) — For intake manifold bolts (very low torque, easy to snap).
[ ] E10 / E12 inverted torx socket — Exhaust manifold bolts.
[ ] 3/8" swivel socket + long extensions — Rear exhaust manifold bolts.
[ ] Tap — M11 x 1.5 — Chase head bolt threads in block.
[ ] Straight edge + feeler gauges — Check head warpage. Spec: 0.004" max.
[ ] Plastic razor blades — Don't scratch aluminum deck surfaces.
[ ] Dowel pin puller — Or vise grips for the two alignment dowels in block.
[ ] Digital camera — Photograph every connector/bracket. You'll thank yourself.

Stage 1: Disassembly

Fluids & Battery

[ ] Disconnect negative battery terminal
[ ] Drain coolant — petcock on passenger bottom of radiator
[ ] Drain engine oil
[ ] Remove battery tray (gives you room on the driver side)

Intake & Airbox

[ ] Remove air cleaner housing with MAF sensor
[ ] Remove intake tube
[ ] Remove throttle body (4 bolts, unplug IAC + TPS + MAP sensors)
[ ] Remove upper intake manifold (plastic, 8 bolts — short + long, note bolt positions)
- 4.7L tip: Mark bolt lengths — there are 3 different lengths
[ ] Remove fuel injector harness + fuel rail (unclip injectors, wiggle rail out)
[ ] Remove lower intake manifold (aluminum, 8 bolts, remove in sequence reverse of torque spec)
- 4.7L tip: Lower manifold has the coolant crossover passage — expect coolant spill here
- The plastic gaskets live here — they're often stuck on, scrape off gently

Exhaust

[ ] Remove exhaust manifolds — both sides
- 4.7L tip: Passenger side is a BEAR. The rear bolts face the firewall and the A/C line runs right over them. Expect to use swivel socket + creative extension angles
- Soak all bolts with Kroil / PB Blaster the day before
- Driver side is easier — unbolt the steering shaft intermediate joint for room
- Common: Passenger manifold cracks between cylinders 2-3. Replace it if cracked.
- Manifold bolts snap easily. If one snaps, drill + easy-out or take to machine shop.

Accessories

[ ] Remove serpentine belt tensioner + belt
[ ] Remove alternator (3 bolts, unplug B+ and field connector)
[ ] Remove A/C compressor (unbolt from mount, don't discharge lines — zip-tie to frame rail)
[ ] Remove power steering pump (leave lines attached, zip-tie aside)
[ ] Remove cooling fan + fan shroud (electric fan — 4 bolts, unplug connector)
[ ] Remove radiator (2 bolts at top, unplug fan temp switch, lift out)
[ ] Disconnect upper/lower radiator hoses, heater hoses at firewall

Valve Covers

[ ] Remove valve covers (10mm bolts, 8 per side)
- 4.7L tip: Driver side rear has PCV valve and breather — don't break the plastic fitting
- Clean gasket surfaces now — old gaskets are often hardened plastic
[ ] Stuff clean rags into the timing chain area (debris will destroy guides)

Timing Chain

[ ] Remove harmonic balancer (crank pulley) — 18mm center bolt. Use puller or 3-jaw.
- 4.7L tip: Bolt is TTY too — replace it (Mopar 53021059AB). Or use ARP balancer bolt.
[ ] Remove timing cover
- 4.7L timing cover: Contains the water pump. 1 oil pump drive, 2 alignment sleeves.
- Cover is aluminum — don't pry on the sealing surfaces. Tap around edges with rubber mallet.
- 4.7L tip: The timing cover bolts go into the block AND the oil pan — oil pan gasket can get disturbed.
[ ] Remove water pump from back of timing cover
[ ] Set engine to TDC: Rotate crank clockwise to align timing mark on crank sprocket with mark on block/cover. Verify cam sprockets align (dots at 12 o'clock, parallel to each other)
[ ] Paint-mark the chain — White paint dot on chain link at TDC mark on each sprocket (crank + both cams). This is your failsafe.
[ ] Remove timing chain tensioner (passenger side, 2 bolts). Push tensioner arm back, lock with pin or zip-tie.
[ ] Remove timing chain guide (driver side)
[ ] Remove timing chain + cam sprockets as assembly
[ ] Remove crank sprocket (puller if tight)

Cylinder Heads

[ ] [ ] Remove exhaust manifolds from heads (if not already off)
[ ] Remove spark plugs (helps to remove them before head removal so they don't snap)
[ ] Remove engine lift bracket(s) from heads
[ ] Loosen head bolts in reverse of torque sequence — 3 stages (full turn, half turn, half turn)
- 4.7L sequence: Outer bolts first, work inward in a spiral pattern
[ ] Remove 16 head bolts — DISCARD. These are TTY.
[ ] Pull heads — use lifting brackets if available. Each head is ~40 lbs.
- 4.7L tip: There are 2 alignment dowels per head. If the head is stuck, gently tap with rubber mallet. DO NOT pry between head and block.
[ ] Remove old head gaskets — note front/rear orientation marks
[ ] Stuff clean rags into cylinders, cover oil passages with tape

Stage 2: Inspection

Heads

[ ] Clean gasket surface (plastic scraper + brake cleaner)
[ ] Check warpage: Lay straight edge across deck in 6 directions (longitudinal, diagonal both ways, across each cylinder)
- Spec: 0.004" (0.1mm) max at any point
[ ] If warped > 0.004" → Resurface at machine shop (remove 0.005-0.010" max)
[ ] Check for cracks between valve seats and spark plug holes — 4.7L common failure
[ ] Check valve stem seals — replace if hard
[ ] Check valve seats — if pitted, consider valve job
[ ] Clean out carbon from combustion chambers

Block

[ ] Remove rags, clean block deck (plastic scraper + brake cleaner)
[ ] Clean ALL old gasket material — 100% clean, no scratches
[ ] Chase all head bolt threads in block — M11 x 1.5 tap, blow out debris with compressed air
- 4.7L critical: Caked threadlocker in threads causes false torque readings
[ ] Check coolant passages for scale buildup
[ ] Check cylinder bores for scoring / ridge at top of ring travel
[ ] Check dowel pin holes — clean burrs

Stage 3: Reassembly

Head Installation

[ ] Install new head gaskets — DRY, no sealant
- 4.7L gasket orientation: Gaskets are marked "LEFT" and "RIGHT" or embossed "TOP" — verify against old gaskets
[ ] Install heads onto alignment dowels — heads should seat fully with light pressure
[ ] Install NEW head bolts (16 total)
- Lubricate bolt threads AND washer faces with clean engine oil
- 4.7L bolt type: M11 x 120mm (inner row) and M11 x 150mm (outer row)

4.7L Head Bolt Torque Sequence

(TIMING CHAIN END = FRONT OF ENGINE)

9    3    1    6    8
  ╔═══════════════════╗
  ║  10    4    2    5   7  ║  ← LEFT (driver) head
  ╚═══════════════════╝

22   14   11   12   20
  ╔═══════════════════╗
  ║  21   13    --   15  19  ║  ← RIGHT (passenger) head
  ╚═══════════════════╝
  17    --    --   16   18

(Verify exact sequence in FSM — this is approximate for 4.7L)

[ ] Stage 1: 35 ft-lbs (all 16 bolts, in sequence)
[ ] Stage 2: 60 ft-lbs (all 16 bolts, in sequence)
[ ] Stage 3: +90° additional turn (angle gauge — all 16 bolts, in sequence)
- Mark each bolt head with a paint line before turning so you can verify the full 90°

Timing Chain

[ ] Install crank sprocket (keyway at 2 o'clock position for TDC)
[ ] Install timing chain + cam sprockets — align all THREE marks (one crank, two cams)
- 4.7L timing: Cam sprocket dots at 12 o'clock (straight up), crank keyway at 2 o'clock
- Both cam sprocket dots must point UP and be parallel to each other and to the head deck surface
[ ] Verify chain is taut on the tensioner side (passenger side)
[ ] Install timing chain tensioner — release lock pin slowly
[ ] Install timing chain guide (driver side)
[ ] Rotate crankshaft 2 full revolutions clockwise by hand — verify timing marks still align
- 4.7L critical: If marks don't re-align, the chain is off a tooth. Start over.

Timing Cover + Water Pump

[ ] Install new water pump onto back of timing cover (new gasket, 10mm bolts, ~100 in-lbs)
[ ] Clean timing cover sealing surface + block front
[ ] Apply RTV bead to timing cover-to-block joint — especially at the oil pan rail intersection
- 4.7L critical seepage point: Lower corners where cover meets oil pan — apply generous RTV
[ ] Install timing cover (alignment sleeves help center it)
[ ] Install new crank seal in timing cover
[ ] Install harmonic balancer — use harmonic balancer installer tool, do NOT hammer it on
[ ] New balancer bolt — torque to 130 ft-lbs

Valve Covers

[ ] Clean valve cover and head gasket surfaces
[ ] Apply small RTV dots at cam cap corners (6 corners per head — where plastic meets iron)
[ ] Install new valve cover gaskets + grommets
[ ] Torque valve cover bolts to 45 in-lbs (cross pattern, in 2 stages)
- 4.7L tip: Over-torquing warps the stamped steel covers → leaks

Exhaust Manifolds

[ ] Install new exhaust manifold gaskets
[ ] Install manifolds — torque to 25 ft-lbs from center outward
[ ] Reconnect exhaust Y-pipe (new donut gaskets if needed)

Intake Manifold

[ ] Install new lower intake manifold gaskets — plastic carrier, 8 hole gaskets
- 4.7L tip: These sit in a groove in the lower intake. Make sure they're seated flat.
[ ] Install lower intake manifold — 8 bolts, torque to 105 in-lbs in sequence:
- Start at center, work outward in alternating spiral
[ ] Install fuel rail + injectors (new O-rings on injectors, lube with Vaseline)
[ ] Install new upper intake manifold gasket (rubber O-ring type)
[ ] Install upper intake manifold — torque to 45 in-lbs (snug, these snap easily)
- 4.7L tip: 3 different bolt lengths — front row short, middle row long, rear row medium
[ ] Install throttle body (new gasket, 45 in-lbs)
[ ] Reconnect all vacuum lines (map the ones at rear of intake)
[ ] Reconnect fuel lines (push-click connectors)

Sensors & Electrical

[ ] Install spark plugs — 15 ft-lbs, anti-seize
[ ] Install coil packs (8 individual or 2 rail-type depending on year)
[ ] Reconnect all sensors: CKP, CMP, IAT, MAP, TPS, IAC, knock sensors, coolant temp
[ ] Reconnect injector harness
[ ] Install fan shroud + electric fan
[ ] Install radiator + hoses
[ ] Install new thermostat + gasket (195°F — housing bolts 45 in-lbs)
[ ] Install belt tensioner + serpentine belt
[ ] Install alternator (torque to spec)
[ ] Install A/C compressor (zip-tie released, bolted down)
[ ] Install power steering pump
[ ] Install battery tray + battery
[ ] Reconnect battery negative

Fluids

[ ] Fill oil — 6 quarts 5W-20 or 5W-30 conventional (for break-in)
[ ] Install new oil filter (pre-fill it before installing)
[ ] Fill coolant — Use vacuum fill tool if available
- Otherwise: Fill slowly through radiator, leave cap off, start engine
- Turn heater to HIGH, heater blower on LOW
- When thermostat opens (upper rad hose gets hot), coolant drops — top it off
- Squeeze upper hose repeatedly to burp air
- Install cap once at full temp and no more air bubbles

Stage 4: First Start

[ ] Prime oil system: Crank engine with fuel pump relay pulled (or disable injectors) for 10 seconds. Watch oil pressure gauge.
[ ] Install relay — start engine. Let idle.
[ ] Check for:
- Oil leaks (valve covers, timing cover, oil filter)
- Coolant leaks (water pump weep hole, hoses, intake crossover)
- Exhaust leaks (manifold flanges)
- Vacuum leaks (hissing from intake)
[ ] Listen for valvetrain noise — should quiet down in 10-15 seconds as lifters fill
[ ] Listen for timing chain noise (rattling = tensioner issue)
[ ] Run to full operating temp — verify temp gauge stays in normal range
[ ] Bleed cooling system — cycle revs from idle to 2500 RPM 5-6 times to push air
[ ] Check for white smoke from exhaust (coolant burning — bad sign)
[ ] Check for rough idle / misfire codes

Post-Start Checklist

[ ] Let engine cool — retorque intake manifold (they settle after heat cycle)
[ ] Verify coolant level after cool-down
[ ] Re-check oil level
[ ] Test drive — 5-10 miles of mixed driving
[ ] Re-check for leaks after heat cycle
[ ] Change oil + filter after 100 miles — break-in wear particles in oil

4.7L Specific Gotchas

Issue	What To Watch For
Passenger exhaust manifold	Rear bolts blocked by A/C line. Swivel socket + extensions. Expect broken bolts.
Timing cover seal	Oil pan lip intersection — beads of RTV required at 4 corners or it WILL leak
Plastic intake gaskets	Old ones crack + leak coolant into valley. If you see dried orange/purple crust under lower intake, that's the failure.
Head bolt threadlocker	Factory bolts have threadlocker that hardens. Chase ALL 16 holes or you'll strip a block thread on reinstall.
Coolant crossover	Lower intake manifold has a coolant crossover passage. If you skip the plastic gaskets here, coolant enters crankcase = milkshake.
Valve cover warpage	Stamped steel — easy to bend. Don't over-torque.
Timing chain slack	4.7L known for chain guide wear. If your chain has more than 1/4" of play, replace everything.
Oil pan gasket	If you disturbed it removing timing cover, it may leak at the front. Can be tricky to reseal without dropping the pan.
Crank bolt TTY	Replace it. A reused crank bolt can back out and destroy the crank sprocket.

FSM Torque Reference

Component	Torque	Notes
Head bolts — Stage 1	35 ft-lbs	In sequence
Head bolts — Stage 2	60 ft-lbs	In sequence
Head bolts — Stage 3	+90°	Angle gauge required
Intake manifold (upper)	45 in-lbs	Snug — plastic manifold
Intake manifold (lower)	105 in-lbs	Aluminum, in sequence
Exhaust manifold	25 ft-lbs	Center-out, 3 stages
Valve covers	45 in-lbs	Cross-pattern
Timing cover	20 ft-lbs	+ RTV at corners
Water pump	100 in-lbs	Behind timing cover
Spark plugs	15 ft-lbs	Anti-seize
Harmonic balancer bolt	130 ft-lbs	NEW bolt required
Oil pan	105 in-lbs	If disturbed at front
Thermostat housing	45 in-lbs	Over-torque = warp = leak
Coolant temp sensor	15 ft-lbs	Don't overtighten

Total time estimate: 18-25 hours if you've done this before. 30+ hours for a first-timer with all the "while I'm in there" parts.

Biggest rookie mistakes on the 4.7L (in order):

Reusing TTY head bolts
Not chasing block threads → stripped block on reinstall
Not replacing timing chain guides → rattle after 5K miles
RTV starvation at timing cover-to-oil pan junction → oil leak at front of pan
Over-torquing plastic intake manifold → cracked manifold = vacuum leak
Forgetting the PCV valve at rear of driver valve cover → oil consumption post-repair